Cuba with kids

My family and I spent Christmas in La Havana, Cuba. It was our Christmas gift to one another. It was also my 40th birthday and I wanted to ring in the new decade with an adventure. The trip was initially quite complicated to plan, as we lived in the USA then. Travel to Cuba for the purposes of tourism by a US resident or citizen is technically illegal. Though Cuba is very close to the tip of Florida, our trip involved three flights and many hours of planning to determine connections between limited carriers at affordable ticket prices.

Our kids had previously travelled internationally quite a bit but this was their first true experience of poverty and independent travel in an underdeveloped foreign country. My husband and I have traveled that way many times previously, but this was also *our* first experience travelling this way with our kids.

Ella made a friend and they entertained one another during the lengthy wait for our bags at La Havana airport.

We had a pretty rotten first 24 hours in the country: Charlie came down with croup and started vomiting on entry into Havana airport; our lift didn’t show at the airport; and we couldn’t find our accommodation. We quickly realised just how dependent we’ve become on mobile phones and the internet. It was like traveling in the 1990’s all over again. My husband managed to figure it all out while I kept the kids occupied and by the end of the next day we were at last settled in the casa we had booked.

Charlie looking miserable with croup.

Off to our casa particulares in an old 50’s wagon.

Walking through the labyrinth hallway to our apartment in Old Havana.

Simple kitchen in the apartment in Old Havana.

Restoration began on an old historic building here then ceased.. The scaffold has long since been engulfed in vines.

Old Havana.

 

My husband and I had developed a *way* of traveling together pre kids that we loved. Wandering streets slowly without any particular plan or aim. Meeting people, chatting (the inevitable charades!), generally just following our noses. *Cue the screeching brakes*. Our kids complained loudly the minute we started this.

We took a stroller for the kids. Ella was 5 then and enjoyed sitting on the front for a ride. I’m sure her legs could’ve taken her much further than they did.

Our friendly hosts.

Taxis waiting for a customer. Beautiful Spanish tiled apartments.

We soon discovered there are plenty of things for kids to do in La Havana. There are cheap, government-run theme parks around the city that local families love. The parks were run down and rickety but our kids were in heaven. A train ride for one US penny! We met and chatted with super friendly Cuban families. It was a buzz watching our kids play with Cuban kids, despite their language barrier. Our trip became a whole new experience because of this and it took us away from the touts in the tourist areas. And the kids then allowed us an hour or so of wandering the streets here and there, too.

A friendly family we met at a theme park downtown.

This woman looked bored and a little sad when I first approached her. She was delighted when she I realised it was really *her* I wanted to photograph. Her job was to take tickets for the bouncy house behind her.

The kids playing at a park close to our accomodation.

Tired, old, scared looking carousel horses – but our kids loved them. Another ride at a theme park.

I loved these women. They were cleaning the grounds at the theme park and did it with such personality and character. In charades I told them this, also telling them they are strong. I love these exchanges when traveling. And I’m working on it at home, too.

Construction worker having his lunch break. Such a beautiful face amongst all the mess.

Street art depicting hunger. Cuba went through very lean times economically during the 1990’s – many Cubans lost up to 1/3 of their body weight. Trees establishing themselves on the balconies of run down terrace apartments.

Kids playing in the street. Ella asked ‘why do they play in the street, and not their backyards?’. Such a simple observation opened up a great conversation about poverty and how incredibly luxurious her life is compared to these kids, and most others in the world.

Old ladies having a chat, they were enamoured with the kids.

I had fun with these guys. A street haircut. Love the lady walking by in the background.

Checking out at the supermarket, the light was pretty. And I do believe that ‘reality is extraordinary’, as Mary Ellen Mark said.

Old cars everywhere. Not because it’s cool, but because the economy has forced Cubans to make do with what they have. They are broken down on the sides of roads all the time. Most Cubans would prefer the new cars we drive. But they attract tourists and earn those car owners a good income.

I suppose letting your kids play with stray dog puppies is not hygienic, but our kids were besotted with them. They lived under the hotel we trekked to for internet (though it rarely worked).

Sea baths, Cuban style. An old hotel development, slowly decaying and being taken back by the sea. A ruined section of coral reef. Old derelict buildings in the background. A seawall too unstable to walk on.

Kids fight whether you’re at home, the supermarket or on the Caribbean coast.

Bus stop in Old Havana.

Meat market on the outskirts of Old Havana. This guy told me information about Australian history I had no idea about. Despite their sad economy and infrastructure, Cubans enjoy an incredibly good education system.

Ella decided on the next outing: a horse and carriage ride (priced for tourists accordingly!).

I love the signs of change in this image as my husband wanders through the scene. Overflowing garbage and some guys sitting with cell phones. The current leader is choosing to ignore those who bring technology into the country. Check in at Mexico City was eye opening – mounds of boxes of new TVs and gadgets heading into La Havana with passengers.

Stray dog sniffing the breeze, Old Havana, Cuba.

Walking through the streets of La Havana, Cuba.

Little mall, Old Havana. This lady caught my eye. Her slightly sad and bored expression as she waited for service.

Riding in vintage convertible in Havana, Cuba.

Always the juxtaposition. This propaganda set on top an old dilapidated building.

A little exchange with a small family selling some old junk in this little shop. The batteries they charged too much for were long expired.

Evening stroll.

Lots of uncertainty!

Tired kids, one on Diamond’s shoulders and the other on my back!

A tired kiddo.

A tired kiddo and Diamond yelling ‘watch out!’ as I almost backed into a bicycle taxi.

At a theme park. A lady washes her things at her backdoor, while kids sit through a rather slow ride.

Theme park ride operator. I’m not sure what the gesture means but he was a friendly guy.

Tickets for this were ‘expensive’ – US5c for a few minutes of jumping. The Cuban economy runs with two separate currencies. The government currency was needed for these theme parks.

 

Since our trip, President Obama and his family visited, sending a clear message that the US government will ignore the embargo on travel. There will no doubt be a huge wave of US tourism to the small nation now. I fear a little for the division this will create in Cuban wealth – between those in the tourist industry and the rest of the population. The country isn’t well equipped for larger scale visitation right now, but tourists sensitive to the country’s history and needs will bring much needed money to their economy.

It’s well worth the effort traveling off the beaten path with kids. Hearing my daughter reflect on the trip and speak with empathy on the poverty she saw is incredible. And I figure that taking the kids to the supermarket can be equally difficult some days!

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